Argentina. My home away from home. I was lucky enough to to squeeze in 2 weeks with my visit here. I stayed mostly in City Bell, my boyfriends hometown. However we headed to Buenos Aires (BA) for an extended weekend.
And who’s a better expert than me on Argentina? My boyfriend, Santiago. So I’ve asked him to comment about various places too, from a local’s perspective.
Palermo is a young trendy neighbourhood that sprawls out in all directions and seems to never end. The store and restaurants here, you won’t see anywhere else. There are little to no chains, everything independents from clothing to furniture stores. All the latest trends and large spaces. Our hotel was close to here and we came here everyday for strolling around and stuffing our faces. And on top of it all, we were able to follow a street art map which brought us to all of the big and popular street art within palermo. I loved Palermo for its charm and authenticity.
Palermo is my favourite neighborhood in BA and probably one of my favourites in the world. So young, always trendy, always evolving, full of options and it never sleeps. Love the personalities of the shops here, each one has a story to tell. I’ve been here a thousand times and I still feel I don’t know it completely. My favourite are the little and unique cafes and stores that let you always feel like a tourist.
Food in Palermo
Cannot go to Argentina without talking about meat. We went to this chorizo sandwich shop called Chori. And you gotta be careful with this one because it always has a long line. We went in the off hours and actually had some luck. We loved the different combinations and chorizo they had. The flavours tasted homemade and the chorizo was never pre-cooked. Every time we went, we had to wait 20 minutes for them to cook it. We came here twice in the weekend we had and would definitely go back again.
I loved this restaurant. It’s a perfect example of adapting to the modern day the really traditional Argentinian food. The chorizo sandwich is a really common and traditional Argentinian food, but nobody actually does any change to it, and anywhere you have it it’s only gonna be chorizo and bread, nobody will dare to change that. So Chori, actually giving you different options is a great way to bring some fresh version of Argentinian food. The combinations might sound a little weird at first but all the ones we tried were great. The quality of the food is great and the price was actually really good. We really enjoyed this place and spending some time here in the hearth of Palermo Soho.
After all of our nights out drinking, we really needed something fresh and healthy in our system. We came to Le Pain Quotidien for lunch and got just that. We both had amazing salads which were just loaded with fresh vegetables. The interior is also so quant and we sat outside in their little patio garden which had a bunch of planters up the wall. We had a well needed, refreshing meal and of course I would go back in a heart beat. For those of you who know me… can you believe i just talked about a goddamn salad?!
Now this is more me… Icecream!! and more specifically, ice cream bars from Lucciano’s which i believe started in Mar del Plata, a beach town, and made it’s way here. As you can see they had many different flavours and fun shapes, but I of course always go for the dulce de leche when in Argentina. As for the ice cream bars, you could buy your base flavour and then doll it up with chocolate with sprinkles or nuts or whatever really. And not only did they have ice cream bars, but they also had regular ice cream too.
Now something that we really enjoy doing while traveling is trying out different bars.
First bar on our list and a new one for that matter too, opened within the last year or so. And you would never believe who we saw, only the singing god of christmas himself, Michael Buble.
We got to the bar and waiting to be seated and there was another group in front of us also talking with the staff about seating. My boyfriend, says “oh, it’s Michael Buble” and of course i think he’s talking about the music that the bar is playing just on their speakers, and i listen to the music and say back to him “no, that’s not his music” and he replied back to me “no, in front of us” and at that moment i look to the group in front of us as they head into a private room. For those of you who don’t know this, he has an Argentinian wife who is shooting a movie in BA right now.
The drinks here were fantastic. They were uniquely craft and were mixed very well and all the flavours complimented each other. We also had some bar food of a platter of mixed cheeses which my boyfriend assured me was very Argentinian for dessert. However the service was really lacking, for our first drinks our waiter was attentive but by the 2nd drink he was no where to be found and this continued for the rest of the night. I did see him going into the private rooms so i guess his main focus was elsewhere. Oh, and the seats were extremely uncomfortable, our legs went numb in a matter of minutes.
I’ve been following this bar since it opened because it’s from a bartender I like. Loved having the occasion of finally going there and couldn’t think of a better time than our visit to BA. The drinks were amazing, even having high expectations i was surprised. And the decoration of the place was really nice. Too bad we had problems with the waitress. I think it’d have been better if we’d have gone to the bar area instead of a table.
Now Franks had a better seating arrangement, we saw in big red, plush couches and chairs and the service was amazing, as soon as we closed a menu, a waiter was waiting to take our order. Here at franks, it’s a speak easy with a password to get in. Once you’re in, you punch a code into a telephone booth and viola, a door opens leading you down a very long and dark hallway to the bar and lounge.
I think i preferred the drinks at Presidente Bar but they were still really good. And they have a more complete menu here, you can have an actual dinner here. However, we only ordered a bunch of appetizers to share.
What to say about Frank’s, I found it a couple of years ago. It’s been always perfect. I like that it has a younger crowd than Presidente Bar, it feels a little more casual and relaxed. The cocktails here are always really good, I like that it had a pretty big cocktail menu. And the waitress here was just great.
You would never believe the amount of green BA has, and I don’t just means its parks. The streets are also covered in large leafy trees which protect from the heat of the sun. Here at the Palermo Rosedal, they have a labyrinth of flowers surrounding a small lake and a nice terrance to walk along. We spent a lot of time here just people watching.
Palermo gardens is a pretty big park in the middle of BA which works as the backyard of all the people who live in Palermo and nearby. As if such a huge green lung in the middle of the busy city isn’t already a pretty amazing thing to see, seeing all the people going on the weekend to enjoy the green spaces is always a really entertaining spectacle. The people paddle boating on the lake, rollerblading or just laying on the grass having some mate and sharing a moment with friends or family.
From Palermo gardens my favourite part are the Rose Gardens, it has a really nice walking path, so quiet that it almost makes you forget you’re in the middle of BA.
I love just us walking around and seeing all the people in weekend mode. I could spend the whole day just sitting and contemplating.
Four Seasons: Elena and Pony Line
For our last night we BA, we met up with my boyfriends family for a double date at the restaurant Elena inside the Four Seasons. And of course it was nothing short of spectacular. Afterwards we headed into the bar, Pony Line for some cocktails which were very tasty yet strong.
We had an impressive time in BA, going out every night and exploring like a local during the day. I cannot wait to go back and see what else BA has in store.